Khumbu Loop on a Budget

The route in one minute

Loop: Kathmandu → (bus) Salleri → (jeep) Surke → Phakding → Monjo → Namche (2 nights) → Phortse Thanga → Dole → Machhermo → Gokyo (2 nights, Gokyo Ri) → Ngozumpa glacier → Thangnak → Cho La → Dzongla → Lobuche → Gorak Shep + EBC → Kala Patthar → Pheriche → Namche → Surke → (jeep) Salleri → (bus) Kathmandu.

Why this direction: Gokyo first gives you two nights at 4,790 m and a 5,357 m summit before the 5,420 m pass, and you climb the steep, loose west side of Cho La instead of descending it.

Why these dates: the two road days (23–24 Sep) fall just before the storm, and you spend the wettest days (25–27 Sep) low on the main trail (Phakding, Monjo) where rain is unpleasant but not dangerous. You climb into the clear, cold spell from 28 Sep and cross Cho La on 5 Oct — early October is the driest part of your window up high.

Why 23 days: the road costs 4 more days than flying, but each day on the trail costs you only ≈NPR 4,000–6,000 while the Lukla flights would cost ≈NPR 46,500 each. The road wins by ≈NPR 18,000 each.

Sleeping altitude, day by day

Sleep altitudeHighest point that day (dashed)

Three ways to do it for two people

Option (2 people, porter-guide)	Days	Home	Nepal NPR / person	All-in BDT / person	Both of you, BDT
A · Fly Lukla both ways	19	10 Oct	1,39,700	1,46,800	2,93,600
B · Fly in, bus out	20	11 Oct	≈1,27,000	≈1,36,700	≈2,73,300
C · Bus + jeep both ways ✓ this plan	23	14 Oct	121,800	132,489	264,978

All-in = Nepal spend + BDT 35,000 Dhaka ⇄ Kathmandu ticket. Option B beats the storm into the mountains and avoids Lukla-delay risk on the way home — the best compromise if you can't take 23 days.

Cut even more (per person)

Cut	Saves NPR	Catch
Share the porter-guide with another pair	≈18,750	Find them in Thamel/online before 23 Sep; the group moves at the slowest person's pace.
Borrow sleeping bag (−10 °C) + down jacket in Dhaka	5,250	Must be warm enough for −15 °C nights at Gorak Shep.
Skip Bhaktapur on the spare day	≈750	Visit free Swayambhunath / Asan instead.
Smaller tip / fewer extras	≈1,000	Tip is customary; don't cut food.
With the first two cuts	≈24,000	≈ NPR 97,800 each (≈ BDT 78,300 + flight)

Where not to cut: no guide on Cho La and the Ngozumpa glacier, no skipping rest days, no under-eating, no skipping insurance. Trekking without a guide would save ≈NPR 37,500 each, but the pass and glacier are exactly where people get lost or hurt, and NTB's rules ask for a licensed guide.

Budget (per person, 2 travellers)

NPR 121,800in Nepal for 23 days, all included (≈ BDT 97,489)

BDT 35,000Dhaka ⇄ Kathmandu air ticket allowance (range 30,000–42,000)

≈ BDT 144,495to arrange incl. NPR 15,000 emergency/delay reserve

Where the money goes

Food & drinks36% of total

43,700

Bed share10% of total

12,200

Transport12% of total

15,050

Guide share27% of total

33,000

Gear rental4% of total

5,250

Permits / entry3% of total

4,150

Other7% of total

8,450

Porter-guide is the second-biggest cost (≈27%, after food): NPR 3,300/day × 20 days ÷ 2. Sharing with another pair halves it.
Transport only ≈12%: bus NPR 1,500 + shared jeep NPR 3,000 each way, plus half the guide's seats — versus ≈NPR 46,500 for Lukla flights.

Food rises with altitude: dal bhat ≈NPR 400–500 low, 800–900 at Gokyo, 1,000+ at Gorak Shep.
Everyday savers: eat where you sleep (room almost free), tea by the pot, tablets not bottled water, one power bank and one SIM for both, snacks from Kathmandu.

Budget calculator

Travellers Guide Sleeping bag + down jacket Extra days (weather/illness) Air ticket BDT / person BDT per 1 NPR

–Nepal spend / person (NPR)

–All-in / person incl. flight (BDT)

–Whole group incl. flights (BDT)

–Carry incl. NPR 15,000 reserve / person (BDT)

Defaults: 2 travellers with a porter-guide. Recalculates guide pay and guide flight/jeep sharing, taxi sharing, rentals and extra days (each extra high day ≈ NPR 3,500 living + guide share). Odd group sizes pay one extra single room. Insurance not included.

Every day, every rupee

D	Date	Route	Sleep m	Food & drinks	Bed share	Transport	Guide share	Gear rental	Permits / entry	Other	Day	Cum.
1	22/09	Arrive Kathmandu · gear, permits, bus tickets	1,400	900	700	400	·	250	3,500	3,700	9,450	9,450
2	23/09	Kathmandu → Salleri by public bus	2,360	1,000	500	2,450	1,650	250	·	100	5,950	15,400
3	24/09	Salleri → Surke by shared jeep	2,290	1,100	400	4,500	1,650	250	·	100	8,000	23,400
4	25/09	Surke → Phakding (walk, rain)	2,610	1,700	300	·	1,650	250	·	100	4,000	27,400
5	26/09	Phakding → Monjo (short storm-day walk)	2,835	1,700	300	·	1,650	250	·	100	4,000	31,400
6	27/09	Monjo → Namche Bazaar	3,440	1,900	500	·	1,650	250	·	100	4,400	35,800
7	28/09	Namche acclimatisation · Khumjung loop	3,440	1,900	500	·	1,650	250	·	300	4,600	40,400
8	29/09	Namche → Mong La → Phortse Thanga	3,680	2,100	400	·	1,650	250	·	100	4,500	44,900
9	30/09	Phortse Thanga → Dole	4,110	2,100	500	·	1,650	250	·	100	4,600	49,500
10	01/10	Dole → Machhermo	4,470	2,300	500	·	1,650	250	·	150	4,850	54,350
11	02/10	Machhermo → Gokyo Lakes	4,790	2,700	700	·	1,650	250	·	200	5,500	59,850
12	03/10	Gokyo Ri sunrise (5,357 m) · rest at Gokyo	4,790	2,700	700	·	1,650	250	·	200	5,500	65,350
13	04/10	Gokyo → across Ngozumpa glacier → Thangnak (Dragnag)	4,700	2,700	600	·	1,650	250	·	200	5,400	70,750
14	05/10	CHO LA PASS (5,420 m) → Dzongla	4,830	2,900	700	·	1,650	250	·	200	5,700	76,450
15	06/10	Dzongla → Lobuche	4,940	2,900	700	·	1,650	250	·	200	5,700	82,150
16	07/10	Lobuche → Gorak Shep → EVEREST BASE CAMP	5,164	3,200	800	·	1,650	250	·	300	6,200	88,350
17	08/10	Kala Patthar sunrise (5,645 m) → Pheriche	4,240	2,600	600	·	1,650	250	·	200	5,300	93,650
18	09/10	Pheriche → Tengboche → Namche	3,440	1,900	500	·	1,650	250	·	100	4,400	98,050
19	10/10	Namche → Surke (long descent)	2,290	1,700	400	·	1,650	250	·	100	4,100	102,150
20	11/10	Surke → Salleri by shared jeep	2,360	1,100	500	4,500	1,650	250	·	100	8,100	110,250
21	12/10	Salleri → Kathmandu by bus	1,400	1,000	700	2,450	1,650	250	·	1,600	7,650	117,900
22	13/10	Spare day (road delays) · otherwise Bhaktapur	1,400	900	700	150	·	·	600	100	2,450	120,350
23	14/10	Swayambhunath sunrise → fly home	—	700	·	600	·	·	50	100	1,450	121,800
		Total per person		43,700	12,200	15,050	33,000	5,250	4,150	8,450	121,800

Permits are booked on Day 1 for accounting; you pay them on the trail (Days 4 and 6). Microspikes purchase is in Day 1 "Other". Same numbers in nepal-khumbu-loop-low-budget-2-people.csv.

Weather: why the dates work

From the 19 Sep model run: the storm on 24–27 Sep brings 26–79 mm/day of rain at Lukla (flights likely grounded) and ~45–52 cm of snow at Thangnak, Cho La, Lobuche and Gorak Shep on the 26th. From 28 Sep the whole upper Khumbu turns dry: 0 mm from 29 Sep to 3 Oct at Cho La, Lobuche and Gorak Shep, with nights of −8 to −14 °C. You're low for the storm; Cho La on 5 Oct falls after the forecast window, in the driest part of the season up high.

Rain / snow-water forecast, mm per day (19 Sep – 3 Oct)

Less → more rain: <0.50.5–33–1010–2020–4040+ ❄ = 5 cm+ snow · outlined = where you'll be

	19 Sep	20 Sep	21 Sep	22 Sep	23 Sep	24 Sep	25 Sep	26 Sep	27 Sep	28 Sep	29 Sep	30 Sep	1 Oct	2 Oct	3 Oct
Kathmandu 1,400 m	6	9	1	5	7	7	13	77	2	8	6	3	1	·	2
Lukla 2,860 m	4	2	1	2	6	26	43	79	4	6	·	1	2	1	1
Namche 3,440 m	10	1	3	2	1	11	40❄	66❄	2	·	1	1	2	4	·
Khumjung 3,780 m	10	1	2	4	1	25	40❄	66❄	2	·	1	1	2	4	·
Dole 4,110 m	9	·	1	3	2	20❄	35❄	79❄	21❄	3	·	·	·	·	·
Machhermo 4,470 m	9	·	1	3	2	20❄	35❄	79❄	21❄	3	·	·	·	·	·
Gokyo 4,790 m	21❄	2	2	8	8	14❄	35❄	67❄	17❄	3	·	·	·	·	1
Gokyo Ri 5,357 m	7	0	1	3	3	14❄	32❄	67❄	23❄	5	·	·	·	·	·
Thangnak 4,700 m	3	·	·	3	1	15❄	26❄	76❄	13❄	2	·	·	·	·	·
Cho La 5,420 m	2	·	·	2	1	12❄	21❄	74❄	10❄	2	·	·	·	·	·
Lobuche 4,940 m	3	·	·	3	1	15❄	26❄	76❄	13❄	2	·	·	·	·	·
Gorak Shep 5,164 m	2	·	·	1	1	13❄	22❄	66❄	7	2	·	·	·	·	·
Kala Patthar 5,645 m	2	·	·	1	1	13❄	22❄	66❄	7	2	·	·	·	·	·
Pheriche 4,240 m	8	2	1	6	4	27❄	35❄	79❄	21❄	3	·	·	·	·	·

Night-time low, °C

Colder → warmer: ≤ −8−8 to −4−4 to 00–55–1212+

	19 Sep	20 Sep	21 Sep	22 Sep	23 Sep	24 Sep	25 Sep	26 Sep	27 Sep	28 Sep	29 Sep	30 Sep	1 Oct	2 Oct	3 Oct
Kathmandu 1,400 m	18	17	18	17	17	17	18	17	18	17	16	16	16	15	15
Lukla 2,860 m	10	8	8	9	10	11	10	11	11	10	9	7	10	10	9
Namche 3,440 m	4	2	5	5	7	7	6	6	6	4	0	-2	2	2	2
Khumjung 3,780 m	3	-1	2	2	4	4	4	4	4	2	-2	-4	0	0	-1
Dole 4,110 m	3	2	3	3	4	3	3	3	3	-4	-8	-5	-4	-4	-3
Machhermo 4,470 m	1	0	0	1	2	1	0	1	1	-7	-10	-8	-6	-6	-5
Gokyo 4,790 m	-4	-6	-4	-3	-2	0	-1	-1	-1	-6	-9	-11	-7	-8	-8
Gokyo Ri 5,357 m	-5	-6	-6	-5	-5	-4	-3	-3	-4	-8	-10	-11	-9	-10	-10
Thangnak 4,700 m	-1	-1	-2	-1	-2	-1	-1	-1	-2	-8	-11	-8	-8	-7	-8
Cho La 5,420 m	-4	-4	-7	-6	-7	-4	-4	-4	-5	-11	-12	-11	-11	-12	-13
Lobuche 4,940 m	-2	-2	-2	-2	-3	-2	-2	-2	-2	-9	-12	-9	-9	-8	-9
Gorak Shep 5,164 m	-2	-1	-3	-2	-3	-1	-1	-1	-2	-9	-11	-7	-8	-7	-8
Kala Patthar 5,645 m	-5	-4	-6	-5	-6	-4	-4	-4	-5	-12	-14	-10	-11	-10	-11
Pheriche 4,240 m	2	1	2	2	2	2	2	2	2	-5	-9	-6	-5	-4	-4

Open-Meteo best-match models, downscaled to each place's altitude, fetched 19 Sep 2026. Days 1–5 fairly reliable; after day 8 the trend only. Cho La (5 Oct), EBC (7 Oct) and Kala Patthar (8 Oct) are past the forecast window — the last model day (4 Oct) still shows 0 mm at Cho La and Gorak Shep; use the 10-year normals below.

The last 10 years, 22 Sep – 10 Oct

Place	m	Avg high °C	Avg low °C	Coldest night	Heavy-rain days 22–30 Sep	Heavy-rain days 1–10 Oct	Avg mm/day Sep → Oct	Snow days
Kathmandu	1,400	24	17	12	21%	5%	14 → 6	0%
Lukla	2,860	15	10	3	16%	10%	12 → 8	0%
Namche	3,440	12	6	-4	14%	14%	12 → 11	13%
Dole	4,110	10	3	-6	8%	3%	6 → 4	23%
Gokyo	4,790	4	-4	-12	9%	7%	7 → 7	56%
Gokyo Ri	5,357	0	-6	-15	4%	5%	5 → 4	44%
Cho La	5,420	-1	-7	-17	3%	2%	3 → 2	28%
Lobuche	4,940	4	-3	-14	4%	1%	4 → 2	33%
Gorak Shep	5,164	2	-4	-13	3%	1%	3 → 2	29%
Kala Patthar	5,645	-1	-7	-16	3%	1%	3 → 2	29%
Pheriche	4,240	9	2	-7	8%	3%	6 → 4	23%

ERA5 reanalysis 2016–2025 via Open-Meteo, adjusted to altitude. Heavy-rain day = 20 mm+. ERA5 over-counts light drizzle in the Himalaya; trust the heavy-day and temperature columns more.

Lukla · total rain 22 Sep–10 Oct, each year (mm). Mean 188 mm; wettest 2016 (322 mm), driest 2022 (114 mm).

Namche · total rain 22 Sep–10 Oct, each year (mm). Mean 215 mm; wettest 2018 (300 mm), driest 2016 (100 mm).

Gorak Shep · total rain 22 Sep–10 Oct, each year (mm). Mean 49 mm; wettest 2024 (129 mm), driest 2018 (5 mm).

What it means for you

Leave Kathmandu on 23 Sep, not later. The road days fall before the storm; a day's delay would put your jeep on wet mountain roads on 25–26 Sep.
The storm dumps snow up high, then it clears. By 5 Oct the Cho La snowfield will be tracked by other groups, but mornings will be icy → microspikes.
Cold is the main hazard after the storm: −11 to −14 °C at dawn on Cho La and Kala Patthar, wind making it feel like −20 °C.

Early October is the driest part of your window up high: heavy-rain days at Gorak Shep drop from 3% (late Sep) to 1% (early Oct); days with any snow from 34% to 24%.
Pass rule: cross Cho La only with a clear forecast for that morning and a report from people who crossed in the last 1–2 days. Cloud or high wind → wait at Thangnak (costs one day).
Re-check every evening with your guide and DHM Nepal; a model is not a trail report.

Day by day

Tap a day for what to do, where to sleep, gear, weather and costs. Days 1–12 show the live forecast; later days show the 10-year normal.

Day 01 · Tue 22 SepArrive Kathmandu · gear, permits, bus tickets1–2 h easy · sleep 1,400 m · max 1,400 m · NPR 9,450

GoodDrizzle/showers · 17° / 27 °C · rain 5 mm (100%) · gusts 25 km/h — model forecast for Kathmandu, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Airport → Thamel: one taxi for the two of you (≈NPR 800) or walk to Ring Road for a micro-bus (≈NPR 30 each).
Buy tomorrow's bus tickets at the Chabahil counters (near Om Hospital) — NPR 1,500 each, no agency commission.
One SIM + data for both of you, water tablets, 2 kg snacks each, microspikes (buy, ≈NPR 1,500).
Rent sleeping bags + down jackets ONLY if you couldn't borrow them in Dhaka.

Sleep

Paknajol / Chhetrapati budget guesthouse (≈NPR 1,200–1,400 twin)

Gear today

Pack one 15 kg shared duffel for the porter-guide + your own day packs.

Money saver

Borrowing a −10 °C sleeping bag and a down jacket in Dhaka saves NPR 5,250 each — the single easiest cut.

Food & drinks900Bed share700Transport400Gear rental250Permits / entry3,500Other3,700Day / running totalNPR 9,450 / 9,450

Day 02 · Wed 23 SepKathmandu → Salleri by public bus10–11 h bus · sleep 2,360 m · max 3,000 m · NPR 5,950

GoodDrizzle/showers · 12° / 18 °C · rain 1 mm (100%) · gusts 26 km/h — model forecast for Salleri, issued 19 Sep

What to do

05:00 taxi (shared) to Chabahil; bus leaves ~05:30. Your porter-guide rides with you (you pay his seat).
Lunch dal bhat stop (NPR 300–400). Salleri by evening; find the shared-jeep stand for tomorrow.

Sleep

Salleri simple lodge

Gear today

Rain jacket + snacks inside the bus.

Money saver

Bus NPR 1,500 vs jeep seat NPR 2,000 vs private jeep share NPR 4,500+.

Food & drinks1,000Bed share500Transport2,450Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 5,950 / 15,400

Day 03 · Thu 24 SepSalleri → Surke by shared jeep6–9 h rough 4WD · sleep 2,290 m · max 2,900 m · NPR 8,000

WetHeavy showers · 11° / 13 °C · rain 26 mm (97%) · gusts 26 km/h — model forecast for Lukla, issued 19 Sep

What to do

06:30 shared Bolero ≈NPR 3,000 a seat. Ask when the road last reached Surke.
If the jeep stops at Thamdanda/Paiya, sleep there and walk on.

Sleep

Surke lodge

Gear today

Rain gear on your lap — rain building (≈10–25 mm).

Money saver

Pay the driver directly; photograph the receipt.

Food & drinks1,100Bed share400Transport4,500Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 8,000 / 23,400

Day 04 · Fri 25 SepSurke → Phakding (walk, rain)5–7 h walk · sleep 2,610 m · max 2,800 m · NPR 4,000

SevereRain · 12° / 15 °C · rain 40 mm (94%) · gusts 36 km/h — model forecast for Phakding, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Via Chheplung; skip Lukla town. Pay the Khumbu trek-card at the checkpoint (SAARC NPR 2,000).
Heavy rain forecast (≈40 mm) — arrive early, dry out.

Sleep

Phakding tea house

Gear today

Full rain kit, pack liner, dry socks sealed in a bag.

Money saver

Room nearly free if you eat dinner + breakfast at the lodge.

Food & drinks1,700Bed share300Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 4,000 / 27,400

Day 05 · Sat 26 SepPhakding → Monjo (short storm-day walk)2–3 h walk · sleep 2,835 m · max 2,835 m · NPR 4,000

SevereHeavy showers · 12° / 14 °C · rain 68 mm (94%) · gusts 52 km/h — model forecast for Phakding, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Wettest day of the trip (≈65–75 mm). Only 2–3 h to Monjo, or stay in Phakding if the guide says the trail isn't safe.
Splits the Namche climb: +600 m tomorrow instead of +830 m.

Sleep

Monjo tea house

Gear today

Rain kit; everything important inside plastic.

Money saver

A short low day costs one cheap lodge night.

Food & drinks1,700Bed share300Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 4,000 / 31,400

Day 06 · Sun 27 SepMonjo → Namche Bazaar4–5 h walk · sleep 3,440 m · max 3,440 m · NPR 4,400

GoodDrizzle/showers · 6° / 9 °C · rain 2 mm (80%) · gusts 32 km/h — model forecast for Namche, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Sagarmatha National Park gate (SAARC NPR 1,500).
Hillary bridge, slow climb, lunch in Namche.

Sleep

Namche upper-tier budget lodge

Gear today

Hat and gloves for the evening.

Money saver

Upper-tier lodges are cheapest.

Food & drinks1,900Bed share500Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 4,400 / 35,800

Day 07 · Mon 28 SepNamche acclimatisation · Khumjung loop3–4 h gentle · sleep 3,440 m · max 3,880 m · NPR 4,600

GoodCloudy · 4° / 12 °C · rain 0 mm (67%) · gusts 35 km/h — model forecast for Namche, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Syangboche → Khumjung → back (free): Hillary School, monastery, Everest View terrace (bring a flask).
Afternoon rest; first clear day after the storm.

Sleep

Namche (same lodge)

Gear today

Sunglasses — fresh snow up high.

Money saver

Buy nothing here you can live without; prices double higher up.

Food & drinks1,900Bed share500Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other300Day / running totalNPR 4,600 / 40,400

Day 08 · Tue 29 SepNamche → Mong La → Phortse Thanga4–6 h walk · sleep 3,680 m · max 3,975 m · NPR 4,500

GoodDrizzle/showers · -2° / 12 °C · rain 1 mm (47%) · gusts 37 km/h — model forecast for Khumjung, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Mong La ridge (Ama Dablam view), down to the river.
Fresh snow may still lie on the trail above the forest.

Sleep

Phortse Thanga lodge

Gear today

Microspikes in the pack.

Money saver

Tea by the pot.

Food & drinks2,100Bed share400Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 4,500 / 44,900

Day 09 · Wed 30 SepPhortse Thanga → Dole3–4 h walk · sleep 4,110 m · max 4,110 m · NPR 4,600

GoodMostly clear · -5° / 9 °C · rain 0 mm (41%) · gusts 13 km/h — model forecast for Dole, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Short forest climb; arrive for lunch; short walk above the village and back.

Sleep

Dole lodge

Gear today

Down jacket from afternoon; nights ≈ −5 °C.

Money saver

Garlic soup + dal bhat; skip imported drinks.

Food & drinks2,100Bed share500Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 4,600 / 49,500

Day 10 · Thu 1 OctDole → Machhermo3–4 h walk · sleep 4,470 m · max 4,470 m · NPR 4,850

GoodMostly clear · -6° / 7 °C · rain 0 mm (43%) · gusts 12 km/h — model forecast for Machhermo, issued 19 Sep

What to do

HRA altitude talk at 15:00 if the post is open.
Symptom check.

Sleep

Machhermo lodge

Gear today

Bottle inside your sleeping bag.

Money saver

One power bank for the pair.

Food & drinks2,300Bed share500Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other150Day / running totalNPR 4,850 / 54,350

Day 11 · Fri 2 OctMachhermo → Gokyo Lakes4–5 h walk · sleep 4,790 m · max 4,790 m · NPR 5,500

GoodMostly clear · -8° / 4 °C · rain 0 mm (8%) · gusts 24 km/h — model forecast for Gokyo, issued 19 Sep

What to do

Past the 1st and 2nd lakes; afternoon on the Ngozumpa moraine.

Sleep

Gokyo lodge

Gear today

Sunglasses, warm layers.

Money saver

Set meals only (dal bhat ≈NPR 800–900).

Food & drinks2,700Bed share700Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other200Day / running totalNPR 5,500 / 59,850

Day 12 · Sat 3 OctGokyo Ri sunrise (5,357 m) · rest at Gokyo4 h up & down · sleep 4,790 m · max 5,357 m · NPR 5,500

GoodMostly clear · -10° / -1 °C · rain 0 mm (30%) · gusts 20 km/h — model forecast for Gokyo Ri, issued 19 Sep

What to do

04:30 start; four 8,000 m peaks at sunrise.
Afternoon rest — acclimatisation for the pass.

Sleep

Gokyo (same lodge)

Gear today

Summit kit, headlamp.

Money saver

Free viewpoint.

Food & drinks2,700Bed share700Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other200Day / running totalNPR 5,500 / 65,350

Day 13 · Sun 4 OctGokyo → across Ngozumpa glacier → Thangnak (Dragnag)3–4 h walk · sleep 4,700 m · max 4,800 m · NPR 5,400

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Gokyo: -4° / 4 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs -12 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 7% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

Follow cairns across the rubble-covered glacier; the route changes every season and there is rockfall — move quickly past loose slopes, never cross alone.
Arrive by lunch; afternoon rest, check the pass report with trekkers coming from Dzongla.
Early dinner; pack for a 05:00 start.

Sleep

Thangnak lodge (few lodges — guide books ahead)

Gear today

Microspikes on for any ice; helmet not usual but keep spacing on loose slopes.

Money saver

Order tomorrow's packed lunch (Tibetan bread / boiled potatoes / eggs) tonight — cheaper than buying on the way (there's nothing on the way).

Food & drinks2,700Bed share600Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other200Day / running totalNPR 5,400 / 70,750

Day 14 · Mon 5 OctCHO LA PASS (5,420 m) → Dzongla7–9 h walk · sleep 4,830 m · max 5,420 m · NPR 5,700

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Gokyo Ri: -6° / 0 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs -15 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 5% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

05:00 start; steep boulders up the west side, snowfield on top, steep descent to Dzongla.
Cross only with a clear morning and a recent crossing report; turn back if not at the top by ~11:00.
5 Oct is beyond the reliable forecast — early October is usually dry up here (heavy-rain days ≈2%).

Sleep

Dzongla lodge

Gear today

Microspikes (essential on the snowfield after the Sep snow), poles, sunglasses, sun cream, 2 L water, lunch, all warm layers.

Money saver

No fees — but this is the one day where the guide is worth every rupee.

Food & drinks2,900Bed share700Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other200Day / running totalNPR 5,700 / 76,450

Day 15 · Tue 6 OctDzongla → Lobuche3 h walk · sleep 4,940 m · max 4,940 m · NPR 5,700

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Gokyo: -4° / 4 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs -12 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 7% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

Easy traverse with Ama Dablam and Cholatse views; join the main EBC trail at Lobuche.
Recovery afternoon after the pass.

Sleep

Lobuche lodge

Gear today

Sun hat, down jacket in the evening (−9 °C nights).

Money saver

Lobuche lodges fill up in October — guide phones ahead.

Food & drinks2,900Bed share700Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other200Day / running totalNPR 5,700 / 82,150

Day 16 · Wed 7 OctLobuche → Gorak Shep → EVEREST BASE CAMP7–8 h walk · sleep 5,164 m · max 5,364 m · NPR 6,200

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Gorak Shep: -4° / 2 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs -13 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 1% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

06:30 walk along the Khumbu glacier moraine to Gorak Shep (~3 h); drop bags, lunch.
Afternoon 2–3 h out-and-back to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) on the Khumbu glacier — the icefall right in front of you.
Back before dark; very cold night.

Sleep

Gorak Shep lodge (highest sleep of trip)

Gear today

Everything warm; bottle inside your sleeping bag.

Money saver

Gorak Shep is the priciest stop (dal bhat ≈NPR 1,000+). Eat, but skip extras.

Food & drinks3,200Bed share800Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other300Day / running totalNPR 6,200 / 88,350

Day 17 · Thu 8 OctKala Patthar sunrise (5,645 m) → Pheriche2–3 h up + 5–6 h down · sleep 4,240 m · max 5,645 m · NPR 5,300

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Kala Patthar: -7° / -1 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs -16 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 1% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

04:30 climb Kala Patthar for the classic close-up Everest sunrise (best Everest view of the whole trip).
Breakfast at Gorak Shep, then down past Lobuche and the climbers' memorials at Thukla to Pheriche.
Losing 900 m of altitude — you'll sleep much better.

Sleep

Pheriche lodge

Gear today

Summit kit again; microspikes if icy.

Money saver

Pheriche has cheaper food than Gorak Shep — have your big meal there.

Food & drinks2,600Bed share600Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other200Day / running totalNPR 5,300 / 93,650

Day 18 · Fri 9 OctPheriche → Tengboche → Namche7–8 h walk · sleep 3,440 m · max 3,870 m · NPR 4,400

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Namche: 6° / 12 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs -4 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 14% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

Via Pangboche and Tengboche monastery (puja ~15:00 if you are early).
Phone the Surke jeep driver / agent to confirm pickup on 11 Oct.

Sleep

Namche lodge

Gear today

Layers off as you descend.

Money saver

Hot shower in Namche is cheaper than higher up (or wait for Kathmandu).

Food & drinks1,900Bed share500Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 4,400 / 98,050

Day 19 · Sat 10 OctNamche → Surke (long descent)8–10 h walk · sleep 2,290 m · max 3,440 m · NPR 4,100

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Phakding: 11° / 17 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs 3 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 18% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

06:30 start; lunch Phakding; Surke by 16:00–17:00. Too tired? Sleep Phakding (+1 cheap night).

Sleep

Surke lodge

Gear today

Rain jacket handy low down.

Money saver

Saves a Lukla flight (≈NPR 23,000 each incl. your share of the guide's).

Food & drinks1,700Bed share400Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 4,100 / 102,150

Day 20 · Sun 11 OctSurke → Salleri by shared jeep6–9 h 4WD · sleep 2,360 m · max 2,900 m · NPR 8,100

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Phakding: 11° / 17 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs 3 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 18% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

07:00 jeep; book tomorrow's 05:30 bus on arrival.

Sleep

Salleri lodge

Gear today

Snacks and water in the jeep.

Money saver

Shared seats only; no night driving.

Food & drinks1,100Bed share500Transport4,500Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other100Day / running totalNPR 8,100 / 110,250

Day 21 · Mon 12 OctSalleri → Kathmandu by bus10–11 h bus · sleep 1,400 m · max 3,000 m · NPR 7,650

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Kathmandu: 17° / 24 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs 12 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 5% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

Evening arrival; return any rentals; tip the porter-guide (≈NPR 3,000 from the two of you).

Sleep

Thamel guesthouse

Gear today

Return rentals.

Money saver

Local Newari/Thakali dinner (≈NPR 400–600).

Food & drinks1,000Bed share700Transport2,450Guide share1,650Gear rental250Other1,600Day / running totalNPR 7,650 / 117,900

Day 22 · Tue 13 OctSpare day (road delays) · otherwise Bhaktapur5–6 h easy · sleep 1,400 m · max 1,400 m · NPR 2,450

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Kathmandu: 17° / 24 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs 12 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 5% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

If the road was on time: public bus to Bhaktapur (NPR 50), Durbar Square, Nyatapola, Pottery Square, juju dhau.
Evening: Boudhanath kora (SAARC NPR 100).

Sleep

Thamel guesthouse

Gear today

City clothes.

Money saver

Bhaktapur SAARC ticket NPR 500.

Food & drinks900Bed share700Transport150Permits / entry600Other100Day / running totalNPR 2,450 / 120,350

Day 23 · Wed 14 OctSwayambhunath sunrise → fly home2 h + airport · sleep home · max 1,400 m · NPR 1,450

TypicalBeyond the 15-day forecast. 10-year normal (22 Sep–10 Oct) for Kathmandu: 17° / 24 °C, coldest night in 10 yrs 12 °C, heavy-rain days in early Oct 5% — ERA5 2016–2025

What to do

Walk to Swayambhunath 06:30 (SAARC NPR 50).
Airport 3 h before departure; one taxi for both.

Sleep

Home

Gear today

—

Money saver

Shared airport taxi.

Food & drinks700Transport600Permits / entry50Other100Day / running totalNPR 1,450 / 121,800

Gear: what, where, and how to get it cheap

BringBroken-in waterproof boots, rain shell + trousers, base layers, fleece, headlamp, power bank, UV sunglasses, meds.

Rent in ThamelSleeping bag (−15 °C comfort) + down jacket ≈NPR 100–200/day each. Check zips and loft; cash deposit, keep your passport.

Buy in ThamelMicrospikes (≈NPR 1,500–2,500), water tablets, buff, liner gloves, snacks. Keep the porter-guide's shared duffel ≤15 kg.

Gear × zone matrix

Item	Why	Where to get · price	Cost NPR	City/road	Lower trail	Upper valley	Gokyo Ri
Broken-in waterproof boots	Wet mud + snow	Bring from Dhaka (used/borrowed fine)	own		●	●	●
Rain jacket + rain trousers	Rain 24–27 Sep, showers low down	Bring; Thamel local-made NPR 1,500–3,000	own	●	●	●	●
Pack liner / 2 heavy bin bags	Keeps sleeping bag & clothes dry	Any market, NPR 100	100	●	●	●	●
Sleeping bag −15 °C comfort + liner	Nights −8 to −15 °C at Gorak Shep, Dzongla, Thangnak	Rent Thamel NPR 100–200/day	≈4,250 for both, 17 days			●	●
Down jacket	Evenings & Gokyo Ri sunrise	Rent Thamel NPR 100–150/day	incl. above			●	●
Microspikes (buy, don't rent)	Cho La snowfield/ice after the late-Sep snow; icy EBC moraine	Buy in Thamel ≈NPR 1,500–2,500	≈1,500			●	●
Thermal top + bottom	Sleep layer + summit morning	Bring; Thamel NPR 800–1,500	own			●	●
Fleece mid-layer	Every evening above Namche	Bring or Thamel NPR 1,000–2,000	own		●	●	●
Warm hat, buff, liner + insulated gloves	Wind chill −15 °C on summit	Thamel NPR 300–800 each	own			●	●
Sunglasses (UV400) + SPF50 + lip balm	Snow glare, high UV	Bring; Thamel NPR 500	own			●	●
Trekking poles	Knees on 1,500 m descents	Rent NPR 100/day or borrow	optional		●	●	●
Headlamp + spare batteries	04:30 Gokyo Ri start, power cuts	Bring	own	●	●	●	●
10,000–20,000 mAh power bank	Charging costs NPR 200–400 up high	Bring (hand baggage only)	own	●	●	●	●
2 × 1 L bottles + purification tablets	Refill free tap water; bottled water NPR 200–500	Tablets from Thamel pharmacy	≈300	●	●	●	●
Mini first-aid + personal meds	Blisters, stomach, headache	Pharmacy in Dhaka/Kathmandu	own	●	●	●	●
Snacks 2 kg per person	Trail snacks cost 2–4× in Gokyo	Bhat-Bhateni/Thamel supermarket	≈1,200		●	●	●
Gaiters or waterproof over-socks	Fresh snow above Dole 26–28 Sep	Thamel NPR 500–800 or plastic bags	optional			●	●

Food & lodges

Dal bhat power

Rice, lentil soup, vegetable curry — and free refills. The cheapest calories on the mountain (NPR 400 low, 600–700 mid, 800–900 at Gokyo).

Eat where you sleep

Most lodges give rooms free or for NPR 300–700 when you eat dinner + breakfast there. Agree this before dropping your bags.

Pot, not cup

Order tea/hot water by the pot for the table. Bring your own tea bags and instant coffee.

Water

Refill from taps/streams and treat with tablets. Never buy bottled water — it also creates rubbish.

Skip the extras

Hot showers (NPR 300–700), Wi-Fi cards, charging, cola/beer: each NPR 200–700. One power bank per pair, shower in Kathmandu.

Avoid meat above Namche

Meat is carried up from below, not refrigerated — vegetarian meals are cheaper and safer.

Dal bhat (free refills)	Phakding–Namche	Dole–Machhermo	Gokyo / Thangnak / Lobuche	Gorak Shep
NPR	400–500	600–700	800–900	≈1,000+

2026 guide prices; Gorak Shep is an estimate — the most remote lodges charge the most.

Permits & paperwork (Bangladeshi passport)

Item	Cost	How
Nepal tourist visa	NPR 0	Gratis up to 30 days for SAARC citizens on the first visit of the year. Fill the online arrival form ≤15 days before arrival.
Sagarmatha National Park	NPR 1,500	SAARC rate. Pay at Monjo park gate with passport.
Khumbu Pasang Lhamu trek-card	NPR 2,000	SAARC/China rate per the municipality website. Checkpoint on the trail near Lukla/Chheplung.
TIMS card	NPR 1,000 (reserve)	Khumbu uses its own trek-card; if a checkpoint insists on TIMS, pay from the reserve and keep the receipt.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square	NPR 500	SAARC rate.
Swayambhunath / Boudhanath	NPR 50 / 100	SAARC rates.

Carry: passport + copies, 4 photos, insurance certificate, visa-form receipt, return ticket.

Safety: this route is harder than Gokyo alone

Never go higher with altitude symptoms (headache, nausea, unusual tiredness, dizziness). Confusion, stumbling or breathless at rest = descend now with help.
Cho La and the Ngozumpa glacier need a licensed guide, microspikes, an early start and a turnaround time (~11:00 at the top).
Insurance to 6,000 m with helicopter rescue is essential (not in the budget).
Ask a doctor in Dhaka about altitude medication before you go.

If…	Then…
Jeep stops short of Surke	Sleep at the roadhead (Thamdanda/Paiya) and walk on; use the spare day.
Anyone unwell at Machhermo/Gokyo	Stay or go down; skip Cho La and return via Dole. Gokyo alone is still a great trip.
Cho La unsafe (cloud, wind, no recent crossings)	Wait one day at Thangnak, or retreat to Gokyo; EBC then needs +3–4 days via the lower trail.
Late on the pass (not at top by ~11:00)	Turn back to Thangnak.
Tired at Gorak Shep	Choose EBC or Kala Patthar, not both — Kala Patthar has the better Everest view.
Road closed on the way out (10–12 Oct)	13 Oct is the spare day. If it's still closed, a Lukla flight is the fallback (≈NPR 17,000 each + guide) — change the Dhaka flight early.

Emergency: Tourist Police 1144 · Police 100. Save guide, agency and insurer numbers on paper.